Saint Laurent RTW Fall 2023
Anthony Vaccarello usually distills his fashion message at Saint Laurent down to at least 100 proofs, and for the Fall was all about big-shouldered jackets and neat pencil skirts.
Add a plunging tank top, gold hoop earrings, square aviator sunglasses, a pair of shiny patent pumps with golden stiletto heels and voila.
It was the main look that walked the carpeted track that Vaccarello installed inside a giant black box with the YSL logo at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. He had fitted the room with large gold chandeliers to resemble the ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel, where late fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent paraded haute couture from 1975 to 2001.
When a black velvet cocktail dress appeared with a sexy crossover neckline, disrupting the costume parade of power, you've been thrown back to the days when fabric and flesh blended seamlessly - no openness, no waves, just pure chic.
Vaccarello is an extremely meticulous designer, also dedicated to perfection in fabric and fit, so this what this show lacked in variety, it made up for in finesse - the way those baguette shoulders held tightly, while the rest of the jacket swung around. Backstage, he cited a desire to combine tailoring and fuzziness in each of these linebacker blazers, some pinstripe, some solid.
Big shoulders aren't new to Saint Laurent, and the designer pushed his eye toward this silhouette the last seasons. Backstage, YSL CEO Francesca Bellettini wore one of Vaccarello's pointed-shoulder tuxedos, and she looked like the boss.
She also looked like she came out of a photograph of Helmut Newton, who got proven to be the case for all of Saint Laurent's fall runway looks.
This show was about other grand gestures. Tie-neck blouses were rolled up in giant bows, or ties trailed far behind the model like cigarette smoke. Mohair stoles - some black, some tartan - draped dramatically over those towering shoulders, caught in a chunky gold ring on one side.
When asked backstage about tartan, Vaccarello said the inspiration came from a photo of Catherine Deneuve wearing a plaid jacket. She was one of a phalanx of famous women who attended the show. Others include Blackpink's Rosé, Zoe Kravitz, Olivia Wilde and Dua Lipa.
Tackling skirt suits was a new challenge for the designer, who has more recently focused on trendy coats and tube dresses. What was striking about this show was her determination, with only one style of outerwear – a rugged, bulbous leather jacket with an 1980s scent – and no leather goods except for an evening clutch slender.
Alek Wek, with his endless legs, was the perfect model to debut the new stylish cashmere pants by Vaccarello, the most laid-back thing on the track.
The show culminated in sheer blouses, sheer pencil skirts, and draped velvet evening confections , leather and muslin that echoed Vaccarello's very neat men's collection, where everything also started from the shoulder.
It was a heady explosion of mythical Parisian style, and the guests came out of the pitch black place drunk of elegance.
Anthony Vaccarello usually distills his fashion message at Saint Laurent down to at least 100 proofs, and for the Fall was all about big-shouldered jackets and neat pencil skirts.
Add a plunging tank top, gold hoop earrings, square aviator sunglasses, a pair of shiny patent pumps with golden stiletto heels and voila.
It was the main look that walked the carpeted track that Vaccarello installed inside a giant black box with the YSL logo at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. He had fitted the room with large gold chandeliers to resemble the ballroom of the Intercontinental Hotel, where late fashion icon Yves Saint Laurent paraded haute couture from 1975 to 2001.
When a black velvet cocktail dress appeared with a sexy crossover neckline, disrupting the costume parade of power, you've been thrown back to the days when fabric and flesh blended seamlessly - no openness, no waves, just pure chic.
Vaccarello is an extremely meticulous designer, also dedicated to perfection in fabric and fit, so this what this show lacked in variety, it made up for in finesse - the way those baguette shoulders held tightly, while the rest of the jacket swung around. Backstage, he cited a desire to combine tailoring and fuzziness in each of these linebacker blazers, some pinstripe, some solid.
Big shoulders aren't new to Saint Laurent, and the designer pushed his eye toward this silhouette the last seasons. Backstage, YSL CEO Francesca Bellettini wore one of Vaccarello's pointed-shoulder tuxedos, and she looked like the boss.
She also looked like she came out of a photograph of Helmut Newton, who got proven to be the case for all of Saint Laurent's fall runway looks.
This show was about other grand gestures. Tie-neck blouses were rolled up in giant bows, or ties trailed far behind the model like cigarette smoke. Mohair stoles - some black, some tartan - draped dramatically over those towering shoulders, caught in a chunky gold ring on one side.
When asked backstage about tartan, Vaccarello said the inspiration came from a photo of Catherine Deneuve wearing a plaid jacket. She was one of a phalanx of famous women who attended the show. Others include Blackpink's Rosé, Zoe Kravitz, Olivia Wilde and Dua Lipa.
Tackling skirt suits was a new challenge for the designer, who has more recently focused on trendy coats and tube dresses. What was striking about this show was her determination, with only one style of outerwear – a rugged, bulbous leather jacket with an 1980s scent – and no leather goods except for an evening clutch slender.
Alek Wek, with his endless legs, was the perfect model to debut the new stylish cashmere pants by Vaccarello, the most laid-back thing on the track.
The show culminated in sheer blouses, sheer pencil skirts, and draped velvet evening confections , leather and muslin that echoed Vaccarello's very neat men's collection, where everything also started from the shoulder.
It was a heady explosion of mythical Parisian style, and the guests came out of the pitch black place drunk of elegance.
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