Schiaparelli RTW Spring 2023

Elsa Schiaparelli wasn't afraid to shock with her surreal fashion designs — after all, she has used the word to baptize its most famous perfume.

Daniel Roseberry, the designer who spearheaded the revival of the historic French fashion house, made the one of the diaries - creating moments himself: think Kim Kardashian in her green leather corset, or Julia Fox in a cropped denim jacket with cone-shaped breasts.

His spring ready-to-wear line, titled "The Extra Ordinary", was positively calm in comparison . Crisp designs ranging from chic black suits to monochrome evening wear served as the canvas for her signature trompe l'oeil embellishments and gold anatomical embellishments.

"I feel like the culture is going into this era like the 80s where things were becoming shocking for the sake of being shocking," Roseberry said during a tour of the collection in a showroom next to the house's Place Vendôme headquarters. "Returning to that old Hollywood glam feeling is something that starts feel really good."

Surfing on the success of his retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, which runs until January 22, the brand is entering its next phase of growth, hence the range of its wardrobe must-haves, such as suit jackets with padlock closures, or a 1930s-style evening dress in ivory satin and black velvet grouped into a hangs out.

"The past three years have been about language building, sewing building, about building a reputation and then the next three years is about growing the business,” Roseberry explained.

A chic black cocktail dress comes with a dusting of gold sequins outlining the body in strokes thick brush, while the denim shimmering pieces of golden buttons or embroidered details.

"I want to elevate the everyday experience," the designer said. "The silhouette may seem plain or familiar at times, but the execution and craftsmanship are extraordinary."

Roseberry hung out at the Paul Bert Serpette antiques market in Paris over the weekend, and made a nod to 70s and 80s costume jewelry with chunky cuffs and chandelier earrings.

References to archive drawings presented in the Decorative Arts exhibition punctuated the exhibition. The back of a white shirt was embroidered with golden sunrays, in reference to a veil designed by Schiaparelli in 1935, while a jacket decorated with a face was inspired by his collaboration with the French artist Jean Cocteau. /p>

This is the kind of legacy that money can't buy, and should give to Schiaparelli a crucial advantage as he seeks to reach a wider audience.