Oli Brown's recipe for a festive pear and sherry trifle

A trifle isn't just for Christmas! It is one of the best puddings in the world. Deep down, I don't really care about the fruit; the truth is, it's a container for everything else - alcohol sponge layers, jelly, custard, cream. But I guess adding pears or quinces instead of, say, strawberry jam makes it look slightly more sophisticated and, of course, seasonal. >You will need a trifle bowl or a nice glass bowl.

Preparation 30 minCooking 40 minAdjustment 1h30 For 8 people

For the sponge cake1 sachet of 175g of biscuits 150ml of amontillado sherry

For the pears and jelly 6 pears – as ripe as possible 1 lemon, zested, plus a squeeze of juice 350ml white or sparkling wine 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 125g white sugar 2½ sheets gelatine – if cooking for vegetarians, check that the gelatin is not made with animal products

For the custard5 egg yolks4 tbsp caster sugar 1 tbsp cornflour 200 ml whole milk 300 ml fresh cream 1 vanilla pod split in half lengthways and seeds scraped out

To finishSlivered almonds400 ml double cream Violets of Parma Peels of candied orangeGlazed cherries

Break each cookie into thirds, use to line the bottom of the serving bowl, then pour in the sherry evenly ent on top.

Peel and core the pears, then place them in a second bowl filled with water and a squeeze of lemon, so they don't discolor.

Put the wine, 300 ml of water, lemon zest, vanilla and sugar in a saucepan and bring to the boil over low heat, stirring so that the sugar dissolves. Drain the pears, add them to the pan and simmer gently for eight to 10 minutes, until just cooked through. Lift the pears with a slotted spoon and let the syrup simmer for another 10 minutes or so, until it has reduced to around 600ml.

Chop the cooked pears into 3 cm cubes and arrange them on top of the biscuit soaked in sherry.

Soak the gelatin in cold water for five minutes, then, once softened, whisk gently in the syrup pot, until dissolved. Put the syrup in the fridge for about half an hour, until it starts to set but isn't quite frozen, then pour it over the pear pieces in the trifle bowl and chill for about an hour. another half hour, until completely set.

For the pastry cream, beat the egg yolks, sugar and cornstarch in a large bowl. Place the milk, cream and vanilla in a nonstick skillet over low heat and stir. Just before the milk mixture begins to simmer, pour it into the egg bowl and stir constantly. Lower the heat under the saucepan to low, pour in the custard mixture and cook, stirring slowly and continuously, until it coats the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat and whisk intermittently as it cools into a thick, velvety cream. Once the custard has cooled, pour it over the now set jelly layer, then return the trifle bowl to the fridge for about 30 more minutes, until the custard is also set.

Toast the slivered almonds in a dry skillet until pale golden, then let cool. Whip the heavy cream until thick, then spread it over the pastry cream layer. Decorate with almonds, Parma violets, candied peel and glazed cherries, and serve.

Oli Brown is chef/co-owner of Updown Farmhouse, Betteshanger, Kent