Paris Fashion Week: The Contemporary Market

From full-fledged fashion shows to cozy breakfasts, brands have drawn influences from eras disparate during the presentation of their collections during Paris Fashion Week.

Eagle

For its entry into the official calendar, Aigle organized a splashing show at the top of the Center Pompidou on le le last day of fashion week. It was a grand setting for the French outerwear brand as models paraded around the rooftop fountain to show off the oversized raincoats, waterproof boots and quilted jackets that are brand staples. p>

It was also the second collection of the trio behind the Études Studio brand, which features on the official calendar during Paris Men's Week. Aurélien Arbet, Jérémie Égry and José Lamali joined the label in 2020 to breathe new life into the 170-year-old Eagle. The unusual approach is the reissue of iconic designs, slightly updated for the modern urban with cargo shorts, classic blue work jackets and padded vests.

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Apart from the muted color palette, a bright spot was a red, yellow checkered ensemble and blue, complete with a pleated skirt, waistcoat, rain jacket and baseball cap in a colourway reminiscent of colors from their latest menswear collection, proving they are putting their own stamp on the brand's DNA. The collection elevated utility with prints, but remained rooted in the brand's classics.

Aigle spring 2023 Courtesy Aigle

Claudie Pierlot

The classic French brand has reinvigorated its identity this season by updating Parisian codes of trench coats, sweaters striped and dark jeans. The house, which is celebrating its 40th anniversary, has drawn on its archives for inspiration this season. Tail eyelet collars to wear over sweater vests, wide lapel blazers and well-tailored trousers.

The presentation took place in a traditional brasserie with the stand suspended between the marble bar and the banquettes in leather, showcasing the photography of Christelle Yamabayisa, who captures the essence of the Paris of yesterday in the streets of today, as part of their support for young artists.

The collection mostly stuck to the Parisian palette of navy, beige, black and white. There was a touch of pink in a skirt suit among the calm shades of the city, sunflower yellow on striped shirts and delicate embroidery on denim. Pierlot was also promoting its Anouk bag in new colors. Designed by a Paris-based studio team, the brand quietly introduced a new logo last season and doubled down on interwoven CP, now on denim jackets, accessories and panels in pleated trench coats as it looks to cement a recognizable identity among a sea of ​​contemporary competition. They offered easy partings as they evolved.