Philosophy of Lorenzo Serafini RTW Spring 2023

Moving from darkness to light, Lorenzo Serafini swapped his recreated dim cabaret for the fall show 2022 against a white limbo.

Like a Polaroid, his collection of summery and approachable pieces has evolved from a black look to a brighter color palette of white and pastel tones. Gradually, details were also revealed, including the brocade patterns; motifs from a Toile de Jouy print that Serafini had previously deployed for its second collection, and Swarovski crystals punctuating two feminine tulle dresses.

Speaking of photography, famous images by Paolo Roversi have been pinned to Serafini's mood board. The unique use of light depicted in the images inspired the designer to focus primarily on silhouettes, which he kept close to the body with stretched fabrics.

The second-skin feeling was particularly strong on the upper part of the body, while the volumes increased often enlarged from the waist down. Transparencies and cutouts add to the graphic quality of the collection, while lace-up and ruffled dresses recall the brand's signature romantic spirit.

Instant and unassuming, the collection was fresh and young, but not innocent. Serafini's earlier effort left a sultry trail, the cheeky attitude explored in the fall fading away and giving a nonchalant confidence instead.

Cropped off-the-shoulder tops revealing the collarbones and curve-enhancing dresses down to a few items in latex softened by the prints, everything indicated that there was still a seductive side to the Philosophy woman - only she shows it in full view now.