Rachel Roddy's Recipe for Pumpkin, Beans, Greens and Cheese

It's impressive, I think, when someone can pick out a melon or a pumpkin by sniffing or shaking. This ability usually also involves nerve: the confidence to pick something up and examine it from all sides, and skin thick enough not to be bothered by vendors, supermarket managers, or signs saying "Don't Touch ". I don't have any of the above so I'm often disappointed with melons and pumpkins. I recently told my friend Alice and she revealed her technique while we were shopping at Monteverde Market. She often asks merchants to cut up melons, pumpkins, or squash, promising she'll buy even if it's hairy or tasteless, but knowing it's a dud. And, of course, the cutter is then in a corner.

That, too, requires nerves and skin as thick as the gnarled, gray-green pumpkin I held in a shop the other day. Shaking it didn't mean much to me and I didn't ask, of course. Luckily, it wasn't a dud. It wasn't particularly bright either; although it is a zucca marina di Chioggia, which are generally reliable things, with a dense and orange flesh that is above all tasty, with a sweetness that comes after. If only I had had more nerve, or if I had gone to another store. Other pumpkin varieties to watch out for are the chunky, dark green kabocha, which has dry, starchy flesh with a buttery, chestnut flavor and just a hint of sweetness; the pale green-blue Crown Prince, which looks like someone has sat on it, and has dense flesh reminiscent of rutabaga and sweet potato; red, green and white striped turban squash, which indeed looks like a pumpkin wearing a turban, and has soft flesh like butternut squash.

Roasting makes the good pumpkin excellent, pumpkin average better, and might save a dud if you give it enough olive oil or butter and salt. So that's what I did, to accompany beans and green vegetables cooked in much the same way as a cassoulet - that is, slowly and with seasoning, until they are tender and flavorful and surrounded by a starchy bean broth.

Like the classic cassoulet, the beauty of this dish is in the soft, almost fudge-like beans with a light crust on top. If you are serving soon after making them and the dish is still very hot, then a few minutes under the broiler should suffice. If the time has elapsed and it has cooled, return the dish to the oven at 180C (160C fan)/350F/Gas 4 for 15-20 minutes, or until warmed through and heated through. let the parmesan bubble. Contrast is good, so serve with a green salad, more cheese and perfectly ripe pears, if you have the ability and courage to pick them.

Pumpkin, beans, greens and cheese

Soak 8 hrs +Preparation 15 minsCooking 75 minsFor 4 people

300g white beans, soaked in cold water for 8 hours, then drained2 cloves of garlic, peeled 1 sprig sage, plus a few extra leaves for servingSalt and black pepperOlive oil300g kale or greens, cut into large ribbons 1 small pumpkin or butternut squash (about 400g)4 tbsp grated parmesan cheese

Place the soaked beans in a deep saucepan and add enough cold water to cover at least 5 cm. Add the garlic, the sprig of sage, a good pinch of salt and two tablespoons of olive oil. Bring to a boil and reduce to low heat for 75 minutes or until the beans are tender. In the last 10 minutes of cooking, add the greens.

Meanwhile, cut the pumpkin or squash into 2 cm wedges, removing the seeds and also the skin , if you wish it. Rub with olive and salt, then bake at 200C (180C fan)/390F/Gas 6 for 20 minutes, or until soft and golden.

Use a slotted spoon to lift the beans into a large dish, adding just enough liquid to give them a soft, simmered consistency. Arrange the pumpkin slices and a few extra sage leaves among the beans, drizzle with olive oil and parmesan cheese.

If the dish is still very hot, a few minutes under the broiler should be enough to give it a little crust. If time is up and cold, reheat in 180C (160C fan)/350F/Gas 4 oven for 15-20 minutes, or until cheese is bubbling.

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