Ruohan RTW Spring 2023

Ruohan Nie wanted his collection to be "elegant and anonymously chic". Given the almost minimal quality of her spring collection, she certainly has the sultry gallerist vibe down to an art.

On models standing on pedestals like Greek statues, his work was full of quiet pieces that would have not well translated only through digital formats.

Closer examination revealed the details and textures that Nie worked with - the qualities that made him earned 20 -plus from retailers in its first season.

And seeing the models come alive to head backstage to change their outfits made it stand out again the designer's talent for beautiful flatter volumes in motion.

Take a draped dress that looked like a length of fabric just twisted around the body: simplistic at first glance , it has been cleverly constructed to control its blowing creases. Sheer fitted pieces looked both light and dressy, like long skirts with curved seams blooming like a tulip.

Elsewhere, a coating of wax applied to a range of fabrics gave them definition, transforming cuts easy in altogether sharper - and memorable - choices.