Tory Burch RTW Spring 2023

Tory Burch and his CEO and husband Pierre Yves Roussel have not booked their flights on Space X for moment, but the designer thought a lot about weightlessness when designing her retro-futuristic spring collection.

"I really wanted a palette cleanser" she said of translucent layers in icy and spicy hues, convertible pieces and sleek modernist accessories including mules with toe rings and reverse gravity heels, a new silver T-logo pump and cosmic hoop earrings.

"It was a light reference", she said of the influence of the cosmos on the show, which was held at sunset on Pier 76 under a planetary-looking mobile.

Sport, stretch and refined sensuality were the watchwords of the season, as Burch continued his deep exploration of minimalist ease with satin techno, super-fine knits, sculpted tunics and metallic leather extras, all of which nod to the 90s. That's when Burch came along in New York and fell in love with fashion in the days of Calvin Klein, Vera Wang and early Prada, stars plucked their eyebrows and wore slipdresses, and Gwyneth dated Brad.

It was also before Burch created a billion dollar preppy bohemian brand, that she's been heading in a more streamlined and sophisticated direction in recent seasons.

The younger generation obsessed with all things vintage, and the older generation looking for a special piece, will find plenty to love in the range of sporty utility pieces and romantic layers, as well as easy two-tone satin fitted jackets, four-way stretch skirts and lightweight techno satin coats.

For a more feminine take on the nude summer trend, Burch showed off lace bralettes under these knits very sheer, and rather than risk a whirlwind incident, layer jersey miniskirts and headbands over leggings.

She also revamped her signature tunic, the one made famous by Prince at Coachella, into a sleeveless chic carved hourglass top, to better see a snake bracelet on the arm.

In plain wool or sprinkled with sequins, the new tunics were worn over a selection of beautiful long skirts. This collection featured a slew of on-trend skirts, in fact, in shimmering silver lamé, technical star lace, or handcrafted mirror embroidery. Dresses were equally ethereal, including a long lemon yellow silk dress with mirror embroidery and an organza overlay that barely skimmed the body. Starlet was written on it.

As Burch said, "I want things that are beautiful in themselves but not too -top as difficult.”