You are assured of a warm welcome along the impressive Wild Atlantic Way. Here's why you should follow your nose and let Ireland do the rest...

The Wild Atlantic Way stretches 1,000 miles along the west coast of Ireland. Max Davidson focuses on the northern section between Clare and Donegal. READ MORE: We compared a critically acclaimed meal with a chain restaurant

Talk about the luck of the Irish. We're enjoying a sumptuous dinner at a country hotel in County Clare when our guests rush onto the terrace mid-dessert. What's wrong? A fire alarm?

No: it's an eternal sunset. We watch in amazed silence as the great orange ball plunges into the sea before transforming the horizon into fifty shades of pink.

But, then, this is standard on the Wild Atlantic Way, which stretches 1,000 miles across the west of Ireland, zigzagging with the landscape and taking so many detours that it seems like a story about a long-haired dog in a pub.

Pubs, many with live music, are intrinsic to this glorious route from Donegal to Cork launched by the Irish Tourist Board in 2014. But it the same goes for empty beaches, rugged mountains, sleepy villages and bustling towns.

It's like a tasting menu for independent travelers . Roaming, meaning not going from point A to point B, is the key to the game. You just follow your nose and Ireland does the rest.

While touring Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way, Max Davidson stops at the Slieve League in Donegal (pictured), home to some of the highest cliffs in Europe

We focus on the northern part between Clare and Donegal, each county more delightful than the last. We are too...

You are assured of a warm welcome along the impressive Wild Atlantic Way. Here's why you should follow your nose and let Ireland do the rest...
The Wild Atlantic Way stretches 1,000 miles along the west coast of Ireland. Max Davidson focuses on the northern section between Clare and Donegal. READ MORE: We compared a critically acclaimed meal with a chain restaurant

Talk about the luck of the Irish. We're enjoying a sumptuous dinner at a country hotel in County Clare when our guests rush onto the terrace mid-dessert. What's wrong? A fire alarm?

No: it's an eternal sunset. We watch in amazed silence as the great orange ball plunges into the sea before transforming the horizon into fifty shades of pink.

But, then, this is standard on the Wild Atlantic Way, which stretches 1,000 miles across the west of Ireland, zigzagging with the landscape and taking so many detours that it seems like a story about a long-haired dog in a pub.

Pubs, many with live music, are intrinsic to this glorious route from Donegal to Cork launched by the Irish Tourist Board in 2014. But it the same goes for empty beaches, rugged mountains, sleepy villages and bustling towns.

It's like a tasting menu for independent travelers . Roaming, meaning not going from point A to point B, is the key to the game. You just follow your nose and Ireland does the rest.

While touring Ireland's Wild Atlantic Way, Max Davidson stops at the Slieve League in Donegal (pictured), home to some of the highest cliffs in Europe

We focus on the northern part between Clare and Donegal, each county more delightful than the last. We are too...

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