Rhodes less traveled: finding peace on the Greek island

Lunch in Apollona, a small village in the khaki hinterland of Rhodes, and everything is quiet - except for a terrace located on a small side road in the above the houses. Here, a mix of locals and visitors sit around wooden tables, on which half-drunk carafes of wine, platters of roast meats and freckled feta salads are placed next to bowls of homemade bread. Between the tables, a portly man in an apron bustles about, explaining the dishes, telling stories and pouring the wine he sources from the vineyards of friends on the island. This is Giannis, owner and creator of the tavern, Paraga, and a man with a passion for Rhodes' rich gastronomic heritage.
Lunch begins with three types of bread and a dip of eggplant with sesame and yoghurt. Many Paraga recipes have been passed down from generation to generation. Our main course, a rich beef stifado, has been cooked in clay since morning, giving Giannis a wonderfully theatrical moment as he gently opens the ceramic pot to reveal a creamy stew, served with succulent potatoes dipped in broth. We ate greedily, admiring the green hills, holm oaks and Italian cypresses rising between the silver-grey olive groves and spindly vines.
Apollona is just one of dozens of villages that dot the hills and valleys of inland Rhodes, many of which are connected by footpaths and home to traditional tavernas or quiet village bars.These peaceful hamlets are perfect for spring break, when sthat you can spend your days walking and exploring rather than avoiding the heat. This area also offers glimpses of an island very different from the built-up coast. One of the first Greek islands to embrace mass tourism, Rhodes is primarily known for being a family destination, sun, sea and sand with a healthy dose of Greek history on the side. But it's the beginning of the season that can be the most beautiful time to visit.
Our base for the first few days is the new Elissa: a stylish hotel with a minimalist design located on the small curved beach of Kallithea, about 10 minutes drive from Rhodes town. Like much of Rhodes' coastal strip, Kallithea itself seems a little faded, but we took a recommendation from the Elissa's concierge and got into a taxi for dinner in the small village of Koskinou, a few miles east. 'inland.

Lifestyle Feb 5, 2023 0 26 Add to Reading List

Rhodes less traveled: finding peace on the Greek island

Lunch in Apollona, a small village in the khaki hinterland of Rhodes, and everything is quiet - except for a terrace located on a small side road in the above the houses. Here, a mix of locals and visitors sit around wooden tables, on which half-drunk carafes of wine, platters of roast meats and freckled feta salads are placed next to bowls of homemade bread. Between the tables, a portly man in an apron bustles about, explaining the dishes, telling stories and pouring the wine he sources from the vineyards of friends on the island. This is Giannis, owner and creator of the tavern, Paraga, and a man with a passion for Rhodes' rich gastronomic heritage.

Lunch begins with three types of bread and a dip of eggplant with sesame and yoghurt. Many Paraga recipes have been passed down from generation to generation. Our main course, a rich beef stifado, has been cooked in clay since morning, giving Giannis a wonderfully theatrical moment as he gently opens the ceramic pot to reveal a creamy stew, served with succulent potatoes dipped in broth. We ate greedily, admiring the green hills, holm oaks and Italian cypresses rising between the silver-grey olive groves and spindly vines.

In a kitchen, a woman wearing a headscarf lifts a sheet of dough , in the background is a wood stove and there are cane baskets hanging from the ceiling

Apollona is just one of dozens of villages that dot the hills and valleys of inland Rhodes, many of which are connected by footpaths and home to traditional tavernas or quiet village bars.These peaceful hamlets are perfect for spring break, when sthat you can spend your days walking and exploring rather than avoiding the heat. This area also offers glimpses of an island very different from the built-up coast. One of the first Greek islands to embrace mass tourism, Rhodes is primarily known for being a family destination, sun, sea and sand with a healthy dose of Greek history on the side. But it's the beginning of the season that can be the most beautiful time to visit.

Our base for the first few days is the new Elissa: a stylish hotel with a minimalist design located on the small curved beach of Kallithea, about 10 minutes drive from Rhodes town. Like much of Rhodes' coastal strip, Kallithea itself seems a little faded, but we took a recommendation from the Elissa's concierge and got into a taxi for dinner in the small village of Koskinou, a few miles east. 'inland.