Stella McCartney's Paris show aims to set a trend for subtle sustainability

Stella McCartney's fashion show, held in the public square in front of the Center Pompidou in Paris, was her most enduring yet, but she hoped no one would notice.< /p>

“If I do my job well, you shouldn't see the durability,” the designer said backstage after the show. “It should look like the most luxurious and glamorous show. I don't want it to look like enduring fashion - I want it to look sexy, effortless and easy."

There is an exception to the McCartney rule. Front Row Next to his father, Paul, was Bernard Arnault, chairman and CEO of luxury goods company LVMH and the world's third-richest man.McCartney hopes Arnault will notice the sleek 'leather' shoulder bags baguette-shaped S-Wave have been crafted from a grape-based leather alternative, which this season's version of the best-selling Frayme bag with its oversized chain strap has been crafted from mycelium, the structure resembling mushroom roots, and that the crystals in model Bella Hadid's mesh jumpsuit were solvent-free.

"I have this amazing place at the table, and I want to use this position to change fashion from the inside out," said McCartney, who landed the position of special adviser the in terms of sustainable development with Arnault when LVMH took a minority stake in his company three years ago. “Mr. Arnault is not stupid. While he's watching my show, looking at all these no-leather shoes, no-leather bags, no-leather jackets, he can compare what he's watching with the other brands. He can see that there is no sacrifice in visuals, workmanship or quality in what I do."

McCartney is trying to convince Arnault that skins LVMH's vineyards - which encompass 13 estates on four continents - could become the raw material for more alternative fashion to leather. "I want to infiltrate from the inside. I hope it's possible."

Regenerative cotton has also made its debut on the catwalks, the result of a three-year pilot project in Turkey, which adopts regenerative farming methodology for a cotton production process that captures carbon in the Nicknamed “the dirt to the shirt” in an effort to reflect the success of the “farm-to-table” movement in food, regenerative agriculture is seen as a key frontier in the pursuit of sustainability in fashion , with other projects supported by Levi Strauss and Ralph Lauren.

The show's exterior setting, which drew a large crowd, was a first for McCartney. “I wanted anyone who wanted to come see the show to be able to do so. My clothes are very wearable and accessible - fashion industry exclusivity is not my vibe. And the outdoors is my thing - I'm in nature, in the elements, as much as I can be.

The the primary colors of the Parisian monument have been taken up in a palette of extra bright colors. Yellow, which made an unusual breakthrough during this month's fashion shows, was dubbed "limoncello" in flowing asymmetrical dresses and trouser suits worn over crystal bras.