Nina Ricci RTW Spring 2023

Nina Ricci continues to look to the past to inform her future, seeking to write her next chapter. Led by Nana Baehr, the brand's design studio has drawn on the house's archives, in particular Robert Ricci's fascination with mythology and feminine codes, to offer an airy and playful collection.

There were plenty of opportunities to show off some skin, whether through super cropped culotte-style shorts, cute in ice-dyed silk and a matching shirt with a removable puffy cape, or minimalist with a dress in jersey with a circular cut and a plunging back.

The brand's protective cocoon silhouettes were transposed for the first time on a suit jacket, in light pale pink wool, declined in a series of short summer capes for an alternative to the crop top, or worked as a dress bustier with circles of fabric.

The floral prints were blurry, fading to splashes of color in bright pastels like petals whose dye had bled onto the fabric underneath. More literal and exuberant 3D tulle flowers flew across the chest, tied with barely visible straps.

This was the second season conceived by the studio following the January departures of former art directors Lisi Herrebrugh and Rushemy Botter. In the coming months, the Puig-owned house intends to appoint a new creative director, who will present a first collection next January with an expected return to the catwalks. It is also playing with the idea of ​​collaborations, according to a spokesperson for the brand, who pointed out that Robert Ricci, who has linked up with Andy Warhol among others, was a precursor in this field.