Rachel Roddy's recipe for meringata, AKA meringue with cream, fruit and toasted almonds | A kitchen in Rome

We used to drop by the via Acaia branch of San Crispino's gelateria when returning from the airport. So I associate it with delays, and ice cream to catch up on lost luggage.

Cool and no frills, there was more counter than shop, and the the gelati were protected by silver lids. Lids imply confidence - that he's so sure of what he's doing that he doesn't need to pile it on and show it. San Crispino divides its gelati into three groups: creams, made with custard; pure fruit sorbetti; and gelati with meringues, which have brittle pieces. Many people seem to agree that in the late 1980s, with its techniques, rigor and attention to ingredients, San Crispino changed gelato in Rome. Also that it remains excellent.

Once, at the end of August 2011, shortly before my due date, I decided not to follow our local, also excellent, gelateria and walked to via Acaia. It's a few miles away, a good chunk of which is next to a dual carriageway, but the only thing I wanted to eat was their pear and zabaione ice cream. I ate three scoops immediately then bought a tub to take away, interested to see how the styrofoam would fare on such a hot day. I never knew because a neighbor saw me walking slowly and took me away. Years later, he admitted that driving me through the hot city, heavily pregnant and with a large tub of ice cream, was one of the most stressful drives of his life.

Someday I should tell him that he is partly responsible for today's recipe. If he hadn't brought us home safely, I wouldn't have sat at the table waiting for something to happen while eating pear, zabaione and meringue - a heavenly combination on which I write now here.

Thanks also to Yotam Ottolenghi, whose suggestion for reheating sugar is a meringue changer. It's not too much of a detour, as the oven has to be heated to bake the meringues anyway.

I don't know exactly when, but the via Acaia branch in San Crispino closed. We walked past one day and it looked different. Still a gelateria, but not San Crispino. We knew there were other branches, but we kinda missed that – car nostalgia. Do you remember that time the shampoo exploded out of the zipper and you drank four scoops? Or, coming home with Styrofoam, with a neighbor who had panic in his eyes.

Meringata with cream, fruit and toasted almonds

Preparation 20 minCooking 1 hr 40 mins For 6-8< /p>

360g caster sugar6 egg whites300ml whipped or heavy cream4 half-pears in syrup, drained and sliced100g toasted slivered almonds

Heat the oven to 150C (130C fan)/300F/Gas 2. Warm the sugar slightly by spreading it on a parchment-lined baking sheet, then bake for about eight minutes, until the sugar is hot and the edges are just - but just - starting to melt. Remove and lower oven to 110C (90C fan)/225F/Gas ¼.

Using a stand mixer or electric whisk , beat the egg whites until they are slightly foamy, then , without ceasing to whip, gradually add the lukewarm sugar. Whisk for 10 minutes or until the meringue is thick and glossy.

If your lined tray is large enough, spread the meringue into two circles the size of a plate ; otherwise, use two baking sheets. Bake in low oven for 80 minutes or until circles are dry and firm. Leave to cool, then gently peel them off the paper.

To assemble, place a circle of meringue on a large plate, spread with two-thirds of the cream and make a array of pear slices. Sprinkle half of the almonds and cover with the second circle of meringue. Now, using a palette knife, spread the sides (but not the top) with the rest of the cream and press in the remaining almonds.